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waters on wine

My extended family has arrived at the station in life where discussions ahead of holidays and celebrations revolve around meal planning. Once the time and the place to gather has been established, the focus happily centres onto the menu. Favourite dishes are pitched, new recipes are contemplated and dietary restrictions are considered along with the division of labour.

Various wines will be served, of course. (No points awarded for guessing who draws that assignment.) There are different preferences to consider – including year-round rosé devotees, many aromatic white-wine fans and surprisingly few red drinkers. Those inclinations guide which bottles will be opened before, during or after the meal. The meal is often an afterthought. My assumption is the wines available will work with the variety of flavours on people’s plates; certain wines will work better than others.

For this weekend’s celebration of mothers and inspirational mom types, I have yet to decide. My mood and the weather forecast will factor into the final selections. The short list includes these 10 wines that have impressed in recent tastings or through past performances. Some are new releases, others such as Henkell Trocken and the Belleruche red have been served countless times before. Each is an opportunity to spread more cheer on a special occasion.

Château Roquefort Les Roches Blanches Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (France), $15.95

Rating:89 /100

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This is a refreshing and enjoyable sauvignon blanc from the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation of Bordeaux. Made in an unoaked style, this offers a mix of citrus (lemon, lime, grapefruit) and green apple flavours as part of its crisp and dry character. Drink now to 2026. Available in Ontario.

Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Chile), $23.95

Rating:91 /100

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This Maipo Valley cabernet is full-bodied and nicely focused, showing dark fruit, spice and smoke notes with integrated ripe tannins. It’s a steakhouse style, with a juicy, vibrant character that adds to the appeal. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $27.99 in British Columbia ($23.99 until June 1), various prices in Alberta, $29.49 in Saskatchewan, $25.99 in Manitoba, $29.99 in New Brunswick.

Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Rosé 2023 (France), $19.95

Rating:90 /100

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This grenache-based rosé blend from the South of France continues to be one of the bestselling French wines in the country. The distinctive long-necked bottle stands out on the shelves, but it’s the structured and refreshing rosé inside that’s the real attraction. Pleasing berry, lemon zest and spice notes make for a bright and refreshing rosé. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.99 in British Columbia ($22.99 until June 1), various prices in Alberta, $25.99 in Saskatchewan, $24 in New Brunswick, $23.83 in Newfoundland.

Fleuron de la Rebourgère Sur Lie Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine 2022 (France), $16.95

Rating:90 /100

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This is a dry white wine with excellent concentration and texture for a muscadet. There’s a honeyed edge to the flavour, which also displays the fresh lemon and apple notes common to the melon de Bourgogne grape variety, and the earthy and yeasty notes from the aging on the lees (dead yeast cells) after fermentation. Great value. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages 2022 (France), $22.50

Rating:88 /100

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Duboeuf’s popular Beaujolais-Villages displays juicy and crunchy red fruit character as part of its invitingly fresh character. A lighter style red wine, this has enough structure to enjoy with a meal. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.99 in Manitoba, $34.99 in New Brunswick, $20.45 in Nova Scotia, $24.53 in Newfoundland.

Henkell Trocken (Germany), $17

Rating:86 /100

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One of the first commercial sparkling-wine brands from Germany, Henkell Trocken continues to make the most of its easygoing juicy and refreshing character. Simple green apple, pear and honey flavours are featured in this inexpensive bubbly that’s a great base for mimosas and other sparkling-wine cocktails. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $16.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $17.99 in Saskatchewan and Manitoba, $18.99 in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, $19.68 in Newfoundland.

Kir-Yianni Le Nord Assyrtiko 2023 (Greece), $18

Rating:91 /100

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This stylish white wine displays the fragrant and flavourful charms of the assyrtiko grape variety. Expect a complex mix of spicy, floral and citrusy aromas with nicely concentrated pear and melon flavours that carry through to a refreshing finish. Fresh, juicy and fun, this is a great white to enjoy this summer. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.85 in Quebec.

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2021 (France), $18.95

Rating:89 /100

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Made in a consistently enjoyable style, this grenache-syrah blend presents an appealing mix of red and black berries with pepper and earthy notes. Belleruche balances ripeness and refreshment for a nicely structured red that’s enjoyable on its own or with a meal. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario ($15.95 until May 26), $22.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $24.99 in Saskatchewan, $19.99 in Manitoba, $19.85 in Quebec, $25 in New Brunswick, $25.19 in Nova Scotia, $24.99 in Newfoundland.

Torres Gran Coronas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Spain), $19.95

Rating:90 /100

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The Torres family has been growing cabernet sauvignon in its vineyards in Penedes since the 1960s. A blend of cabernet and tempranillo, the Gran Coronas style is soft and approachable with dark fruit, spice and oak-derived flavours. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $21.99 in Manitoba, $29.99 in Nova Scotia.

Township 7 Seven Stars Polaris 2020 (Canada), $39.97

Rating:93 /100

Winemaker Mary McDermott’s winning ways with sparkling wine continue with the release of this chardonnay-based traditional-method bubbly from the Okanagan’s 2020 vintage. There’s a balanced attack of rich and toasty flavours offset by vibrant and refreshing citrusy character. It’s a serious and appetizing style, with high acidity adding structure to its soft, creamy texture. A stellar value for its price. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, township7.com.

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